See all 27 photos. Chances are, if you are into off-road and would consider using a carburetor on your 4x4, you've heard of the Motorcraft or Autolite or two barrel and the Quadrajet four-barrel Carb. These two carburetors are the go-to carbs for off-road use. Other aftermarket carbs, even those aimed at the off-road market, just don't work like these two do. Still, carburetors are old and need to be rebuilt occasionally. This article is about rebuilding the Motorcraft or Autolite and carburetors.
These two carbs are very similar and are used for several factory applications like many AMC V-8s found in Jeeps and several Ford applications. It is relatively easy to rebuild and is easier to understand than more complex carburetors. Lastly, there are a few tips and tricks we can tell you that will make the Motocraft carburetor operate that much better off road. Check it out. The easy way to tell a from a is the rear edge of the base of the carb.
Supposedly, the s have a rounded rear edge like this. And a will have a flat rear edge of the base of the carburetor, like this. Later s also have an additional pair of throttle-operated metering rods in the venturi cluster that allow the carb to run leaner at lower RPMs, yet supply enough fuel at higher RPMs shown on the right. Some later s will also have an altitude compensator, which is a round attachment to the center of the rear face of the carburetor held in place with three screws.
There is also smallish square opening behind the main butterflies not shown. The Motocraft carburetor we are going to use has a roundish flat rear base like this.
Rebuilding the Autolite/Motorcraft 2100/2150 Carburetor
We think this is a laterbut the name only matters when it comes time to get parts, and almost every parts kit we've seen for a or a has what we need for this carb and more. The first step in this how-to is to figure out what carburetor you have.
It doesn't matter much for what will work for your application as these carbs are interchangeable. That is, as long as you have the right CFM carb—more on that in a minute.Welcome to the ClassicBroncos. To take advantage of all the forum features please take a moment to register. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact the admin. If you've lost your password click here. User Name Remember Me? Joined: Feb I've searched and found a few different recommendations for adjusting the two mixture screws on the front of the carburetor. Joined: Jun Where are you starting from? Was this a rebuilt carb or are you just trying to readjust your carb in its existing condition?
I like to start but making sure the floats and butterfly valves are properly set and the choke is working correctly. Originally Posted by turbotim2. On the bottom of the carburetor near the right mixture screw one on driver's side, right side facing carb from front of engine there is a port on this carburetor that has been plugged off with vacuum hose and a stopper in the end.
Any idea what this port is for and where it is supposed to hook to?
Is this a vacuum port? Do you know if it is a or ?
I have the and there is no port on the driver's side of the carb. I have a pic if you want to PM your email address. Hook up a vacuum guage and adjust the screws to get the highest steady vacuum reading. You will have to adjust the idle speed as you adjust the mixture screws. Yea, it may very well have to do with the CA emissions stuff.
The advance port is on the passengers side on mine. Normal Bronco carbs had 2 vacuum ports for the carb on the smog models. One on the passengers side and tee-ed into the egr the vacuum timing amplifer module and to temperature sensors then to the vacuum retard side on the side of the advance cannister.
This is straight manifold vacuum at the carb. The other vacuum connection was under the float bowl on the driverside and that is hooked up to the end port on the vacuum cannister for vacuum advance.
There should be little to no vacuum on this line at idle. Originally Posted by rustytruck. Adjust both screws the same amount to keep them even. Adjust the idle speed to rpm in neutral.
Originally Posted by Rustytruck. Is one screw for fuel and one for air? My passenger side screw I was told is for the air and is adjusted out considerably more If I adjust the 2 screws the same, it runs rough. This is a rebuilt 77 carb. They are both fuel. Run both screws all the way in softly. The engine will start to speed up and still run smoth. If you have a vacume guage Post 10 is better.Login Register. Motorcraft Choke Circuit The original hot air choke uses a metal spring to move the choke from closed to open position.
Actually the thermostat is wound tight against the choke shaft closing the choke. Hot air is brought up from the exhaust manifold to the choke housing through a hot air tube. A small vacuum port feeds vacuum from the intake up through the carburetor and into the choke housing, which helps draw the hot air up through the hot air tube. As the choke thermostat heats up, the spring unwinds letting tension off of the choke shaft and the choke valve opens. The choke piston is used to slightly open the choke valve when tromping on the gas while the engine is cold and the choke is closed.
This piston does not use any seals, or O rings and needs to glide smoothly. How does the Motorcraft Choke System Work? This video demonstrates how the choke system works and what it looks like assembled.
This is a must see if you are trying to diagnose choke problems. Fast Idle Cam Adjustment Convert your hot air choke to an electric choke:. Can't find what you need? Contact Us. Categories Carburetor Parts. Motorcraft Choke Circuit. The original hot air choke uses a metal spring to move the choke from closed to open position.Adjusting the Motorcraft 2 barrel carburetor to the proper settings will provide you with more performance and better fuel mileage.
The Motorcraft 2 barrel carburetor has two idle mixture adjustment screws on the front near the base, and an idle speed adjustment screw next to the choke cable. The carburetor can be adjusted with some basic tools in just a few minutes, keeping the engine running properly and helping to extend the life of the motor. Turn the two idle mixture adjustment screws clockwise with a screwdriver until they stop. Do not over-tighten the screws. Start the motor and let it warm up until you see the choke plate inside the carburetor open up.
Remove the rubber vacuum hose from the vacuum port on the front of the carburetor and attach the vacuum gauge to the port.
Locate the idle speed screw on the driver's side of the carburetor next to the choke lever. Have an assistant put the vehicle in "Drive" with their foot on the brake while you adjust the idle speed screw until it reaches between RPMs on the vacuum gauge while running smoothly.
Put the vehicle in "Park" and readjust the idle mixture screws in the front to the highest vacuum reading with the optimum smoothness. Turn the motor off and remove the vacuum gauge from the front of the carburetor.
Attach the rubber vacuum hose to the vacuum port on the Motorcraft 2 barrel carburetor. This article was written by the It Still Works team, copy edited and fact checked through a multi-point auditing system, in efforts to ensure our readers only receive the best information. To submit your questions or ideas, or to simply learn more about It Still Works, contact us. Step 1 Turn the two idle mixture adjustment screws clockwise with a screwdriver until they stop.
Step 2 Start the motor and let it warm up until you see the choke plate inside the carburetor open up. Step 4 Locate the idle speed screw on the driver's side of the carburetor next to the choke lever. Step 5 Put the vehicle in "Park" and readjust the idle mixture screws in the front to the highest vacuum reading with the optimum smoothness. Warning To avoid burns, use care around hot engine parts when adjusting the Motorcraft 2 barrel carburetor.
Items you will need Screwdriver Vacuum gauge. About the Author This article was written by the It Still Works team, copy edited and fact checked through a multi-point auditing system, in efforts to ensure our readers only receive the best information.See all 29 photos.
It's been more than 30 years since the auto industry transitioned from carburetors to electronically controlled fuel injection. It's easy to understand the reasons. Because it's been a few decades since we've had to lean over engine compartments to make adjustments on our daily drivers, it's only natural that many enthusiasts are a bit reluctant to take a screwdriver to a carburetor.
And for the youngest enthusiasts, it's a good bet they've had as much experience with carbs as they have adjusting the rabbit ears on a television or flipping over a 45 to hear the "B" side. This fortysomething author admits to scant time with carbs over the years, after coming of driving age in the mid '80s, when the smog equipment-laden used cars from the late-'70s and early '80s would basically never run right again if a vacuum line was pulled off the carb.
You just didn't touch it. Fuel injection arrived soon thereafter and life went on without the need to tune or rebuild a carb. There's now a Ford F in my driveway and until recently, the old Autolite carb leaked more gas than a week's worth of Taco Bell lunches. The puddles on the intake manifold had grown too large to ignore, and starting the engine was taking longer and longer, so I finally decided to take the plunge and rebuild my first carburetor.
The Autolite two-barrel was ubiquitous on Ford engines throughout the '60s and early '70s, and its essential design carried on into the '80s as the Motorcraftwhich featured a variable air-bleed system Motorcraft supplanted Autolite as Ford's official parts brand in Ford's four-barrel carbs, too, from the '60s are based on the design. Fast-forward to the project's conclusion: It was easy and inexpensive. With only a few bucks into the rebuild kit ordered on rockauto.
The one thing we screwed up was the manual choke. We didn't closely note its position during disassembly and regretted when installing the rebuilt carb. The engine runs just fine, but the choke adjustment isn't quite right and we've been fiddling with it ever since.
It's not a problem if yours has an electric choke, but for those working with a manual choke, take some closeup pics before you pull off the carb and match the position later. That said, it was a satisfyingly successful project—and one any enthusiast with opposable thumbs and the cognitive ability to differentiate a straight-slot screwdriver from a Philips version can achieve.
If you meet that low, low threshold of mechanical ability, there's no reason to put it off. Believe me, if I could do it, you certainly can. Quit fiddling with those rabbit ears and get out in the garage! For the Autolite carburetor used for our rebuild project, it carried two lines of code: C8TF Z as the primary part number and B 9D 2 as the build date.
Here's how they break down:. Close Ad. Barry Kluczyk Author. Share on Facebook Share on Twitter.Float Circuit. This illustrates the flow of clean air and heated air which, together, act upon the automatic choke mechanism to properly position the choke plate. The channeling of comparatively cold and hot air into the choke housing adjusts choke plate position to accommodate ambient temperatures under which the engine is expected to operate.Motorcraft 2100 2 Barrel Carburetor Idle Circuit
Cold starts and engine warm-up periods are the usual situations which require a diminished air supply and resulting enrichment of the air-fuel ratio. A single choke plate is located in the air horn above the two barrels.
When this plate is closed, it provides the required high vacuum above as well as below the throttle plates. With a vacuum above the throttle plates, fuel will flow from the main fuel system as well as from the idle fuel system. This provides the extremely rich fuel mixture necessary for cold engine operation.
Motorcraft 2100 Carburetor
The carburetor choke shaft is linked to a thermostatic choke control mechanism mounted on the main body. The linkage between the choke lever and the throttle shaft is designed so that the choke plate will partially open when the accelerator pedal is fully depressed; thus, the unloader tang comes into operation and permits unloading of a flooded engine.
The automatic choke is equipped with a bi-metal thermostatic spring and a vacuum piston. The bi-metal thermostatic spring mechanism winds up when cold and unwinds when warm. Thus, when the engine is cold, the thermostatic spring, through attaching linkage, holds the choke piston in its upward position and the choke plate in its closed position prior to engine start. Manifold vacuum channeled through a passage in the choke control housing draws the choke vacuum piston downward, exerting an opening force on the choke plate.
Then, when the engine is started, manifold vacuum, acting directly on the piston located in the choke housing, immediately moves the choke plate against the tension of the thermostatic spring to a partially-open position to prevent stalling. As the engine continues to operate, manifold vacuum draws heated air from the exhaust manifold heat chamber. The amount of air entering the choke housing is controlled by restrictions in the air passages in the carburetor. The warmed air enters the choke housing and heats the thermostatic spring, causing it to unwind.
The tension of the thermostatic spring gradually decreases as the temperature of the air from the heat chamber rises, allowing the choke plate to open. The air is exhausted into the intake manifold. Slots in the piston chamber wall allow sufficient air to bleed past the piston and into the intake manifold. This causes a continuous flow of warm air to pass through the thermostatic spring housing. The spring remains heated and the choke plate remains fully open until the engine is stopped and allowed to cool.
The choke rod actuates the fast idle cam during choking. Steps on the edge of the fast idle cam contact the fast idle adjusting screw. Thi s permits a faster engine idle speed for smoother running when the engine is cold.Pauli - MSV DuisburgFC St.
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Rebuilding the Autolite 2100/Motorcraft 2150 carburetor
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