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Mamiya 6 2. Mamiya 7 1. Mamiya C 1. Japan United States 2.The Rolleiflex 2. And I primarily agree. Although usually in the form of Rolleiflexes. But alas, I was in college and broke.
About the same as a Yashica Mat G at the local pawn shop. The only important thing I would look for is the 80mm lens being a multicoated model. Although pretty close to each other in design, I knew I needed a camera that cocked the shutter automatically on film advance. On the C, the shutter has to be cocked separately. Besides,…the C looked cooler. And the larger than 35mm negative was an epiphany in the darkroom.
The images above were my first adventure with the Mamiya C TLR and some tungsten floodlights and daylight. The original model was just called a Mamiyaflex C. It was released in When they started tweaking this camera, they broke off into two models; the C2 and the C3.
While I may have been able to afford a Rolleicord, as opposed to a Rolleiflexthe Mamiya C actually had more features.
Including interchangeable focus screens and ability to use both and film. They made 7 lenses for this camera! Good Lord!
Talk about commitment to a platform, Mamiya was definitely in for the long haul. Another nice feature was the parallax correction dial for close-ups.
Switching lenses was a two part procedure. I know,…. And when you switch to unlock mode, it flips a protective shield in front of the film plane! You can change lenses in mid-roll.
Very cool. You will know that on first use. One thing it does have in common with a Rolleiflex; this is a very beautiful camera. I would actually put it by my bedside to see it on first waking in the morning.
You can, if carefully used, and minding the parallax indicator, get within about 5 inches.
And, of course, with the 55mm lens, probably about 3 inches. Anyway, very, very close. But the closer you get to your subject the bigger the difference in what image taking lens sees.
Remember, this is not an SLR. However, there are no issues at normal distances and beyond. While the camera does have a built in parallax correction tool, it is prone to error if you get too close.
Even rangefinder cameras are less than ideal. Any TLR. Vivian Maier and Diane Arbus almost exclusively.Unlike its mightier Mamiya RB and later RZ 67 cousins, this camera is easy to use out of the studio and in the field.
Oh well. Then I read somewhere that, all we have to think about is that every album cover being proof that some excellent square images can, indeed, be made. This is a Twin Lens Reflex TLR camera that takes roll film, and, typically for this format, it shoots 12 exposures per roll 24 on roll film if you can find it anywhere!
The camera is unique among TLRs in that it focuses using a large bellows system, allowing you to capture subjects at very close distances more on this later. Each evolution introduced new features as described here and updates to the build.
The most useful feature, as mentioned above, is the fact that you can, almost exclusively in the world of TLRs, change the lenses.
The Mamiya 330 – A TLR Legend
The body is fitted with a waist level finder as standard. This means that you look down onto the focusing screen, where you see a laterally reversed flipped image. Being a TLR, the image you see on the focus screen comes from the topmost lens, whereas the bottom lens is the one used for capturing your image on film. As you look down, you will see the focus knobs jutting out from the front left and right. These fall perfectly into place when hand-holding the camera.
They are linked, so work simultaneously. Here we have the folded film advance crank just over 1 and a half turns to move to the next framean indication of the film length loaded, the frame counter and a switch will allow for multiple exposures. Regarding film length orthis has to be set manually to ensure the correct frame counters 12 or 24 exposures are displayed. The shutter trigger mechanism is on this side too and you can use either a standard cable release or press down on this release mechanism.
If you use it to mount a flash, it must be triggered via the PC socket on the side of the lens. Also on this side is a selector switch that must be used in order to remove the lens assembly. The camera has no meter but does provide an exposure compensation indicator, which is engraved on a plate on the side of the camera along with the parallax correction scale.
I have no experience of using these myself. The front of the camera is imposing but uneventful.
The film door opens completely on a hinge on the bottom of the camera, thereby allowing easy access for film loading. The indicator changes automatically when you adjust the film pressure plate inside the camera back rotate to switch between and film. The bottom of the camera only has a standard tripod screw fitting bush centerand placement holes for a Mamiya quick release tripod plate.
Loading film is a breeze in comparison to even my Bronica, and more so the Hasselbladas it is pulled from the spool straight up the back of the camera into to the take-up spool.
There is no threading the backing paper under rollers or back on itself. The lenses take either a 46 or 49mm filter which is economical — a step up ring only being required to enable one set of filters to cover all these lenses.If I could save two things then the second would be my Mamiya C At twice the size of the Lubitel this camera stands like a giant obelisk in my camera cabinet.
Ok the last bit has gone too far, I mean my name is Matt for starters. But like the film the Mamiya C22O is epic. Blue Danube is now playing in my head and the Mamiya is floating round a white room, the light glints off the metallic letters at the top of the camera Mamyia C it shines with a wink. The white room suddenly stops and I am presented with a power point presentation The Mamiya C can shoot from f2. This is an incredible camera. It out shoots and out performs everything in my collection.
It captures subtle tones with ease and is incredibly user friendly. I always take this camera when I go on pro shoots. This is for two reasons firstly I am an analogue junkie. Secondly when I produce this camera I always find my client looks at it with slight awe. And rightly so.
My friend has just told me that her mum has given me a in mint condition. Can't wait to get it!!! Lovely shots and review. Ohhh, your famous self portrait was shot on Mamiya C! The shots look amazing! Great photos and great article. Looking to get one of these off ebay soon. Hope I take photos a fraction as good as these. Matt te C has only a cold shoe for flash, and two synch speeds X for strobes and M for tungsten bulbs.
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Thread Tools. Oct 27, 1. Messages: Hi everyone! To see whether or not I wanted to play in MF, I purchased an inexpensive Rolleicord II; so far it's great, although some of the limitations are starting to bug me. The long and the short of it, though, is that the qualities of the 6x6 negative blow me away.
That said, I have started to look at upgrading to something better, probably after Christmas. At first, I was looking on eBay at Rolleicord Vs, the prices, though, for the good ones are unreal.
Why I love Mamiya C220?
In my searches, I ran across the Mamiya C I understand that the C only stopped production about 10 years ago, thus, they are still in good condition. Is this true? Although the lens sets are not up to par with those of the later 'cords, they are still quite good. What is popular opinion? The major advantage which I see is that the bodies and lens sets are separate. As such, a well tended body will last 'forever'. If the lens set goes south, you can either have a CLA done inexpensively or you can cheaply replace the entire lens set.
Obviously, this is not the case with Rolleis, and CLAs are extremely expensive. Anyone out there with experience? Does anyone have any reflections on my though processes?
Practical experience and opinions? Oct 27, 2. I do not have any experience with the Mamiya. When the bug first bit me, I first looked for a Rolleicord Vb as you are. Comparing the two, I don't really see any difference in the quality of the negatives. They both look great. The Minolta's Rokkor lenses were a real surprise that way. Handling the two, I much prefer the Minolta. It is easier to set the speed and easier to focus.
I would suggest you add one of these to your list. Good luck. Oct 27, 3. Messages: 4, Though it's been 'on the shelf' for a few years, my wife began using our C again with it's complement of 3 lenses Using the paramender and a tripod for some tabletop work, the results are just wonderful.
She's angling to buy a prism finder on ebay which will make our kit rather complete we also have a number of dedicated lens hoods and a detachable handle.
I can't recommend the highly enough. If you can live with the limitations of a TLR, the Mamiya's interchangeable lenses and 'system' components make it a very comprehensive kit. The bellows and printed close-up exposure compensation scale are also a great help.The Mamiya C series is a professional-level series of twin lens reflex medium format cameras made in Japan. It was the third series of TLR cameras made by the company. Mamiya began to produce 6x6 twin lens reflex cameras from the late s the first, now very rare, was a conventional design.
This was quickly followed by the C series which began in starting with the Mamiyaflex C. It broke away from the traditional TLR designs used by many different manufacturers.
One notable distinction of the C series is the fact that they can use interchangeable lenses—a feature only found on one other TLR camera, the Koni-Omegaflex. Similar to the previous Mamiyaflex A and B models, it features a automatic film advance, so it does not require the use of backing paper markings on the film for exposure counting. The advance is in the form of a lockable knob on the right hand side of the body.
The film compartment is a bit different compared to many other TLR cameras. The film path is straight without a 90 degree bend. Like most TLR's the film is on the bottom spool and the take up reel is on the top spool. Loading the film require aligning the start indicator on the film to the body. The Mamiyaflex C2 was released init was improved by having the focus knobs on both sides of the camera.
The base of the camera has been redesigned with a longer flatter base eliminating the need for lengthy front feet. The Mamiya C3 was the third development of the C released in The C3 was the version that became popular with amateur and professional photographers and was the foundation for the success of the following models.
It improves upon the C2 by having a winding crank instead of the knob design. The Mamiya C33 is an improved version of the C3 released in The most notable improvement is parallax compensation.
There are marking on the left of the ground glass with an indicator needle. Areas above the indicator are cut off.
The Mamiya C22 was released in Free Rolleiflex 3. Read the FUll Topic. For the older photographers in our forum, that use or plan to use Mamiya TLR cameras and lenses. The usual disclaimer, use the lessons learned at your own risk. Zero, before you start handling the lenses wash your hands. Use a clean white towel on a well lighted table as your work area. Should a part or screw fall out it will not go far and can be seen. First, do not remove the lens from the back plane frame, there is no need to access the lens from that side.
Front and rear optical assemblies unscrew. There is no need to use a spanner wrench on the retaining clamps that secure the lens to the supporting frame. Second, if the shutter will not cock the chances are a single screw has come loose within the shutter assembly that can be restored.
Third, if the shutter cocks but does not operate the blades when released a different screw is loose or has fallen out, that can be restored.
This is located just south of the release lever mechanism. Check all screws for tightness. Fourth, never use oil on any part of the shutter mechanism or ring assemblies or aperture assemblies.
To access the aperture internal assembly, This will require unscrewing the rear optical assembly. Work the mechanism manually using the aperture selector arm, do not touch the blades with your fingers and use another Q-tip to remove excess and any grime. Do not use oil. Be sure to remove any lint left behind by the Q-tips prior to reassembly. Slightly bend the metal finger on the cam plate that engages the indents on the shutter selection ring.
Seventh, screws are tiny, and can be lost in a flash. For most repairs I have done only one screw has to be removed. Eighth, acquire the proper tools, i. A spanner wrench designed for lenses is required see lesson 10 to remove the optical retaining rings that hold the individual elements. If you do this be sure to note on paper which side is up, in or out facing. Do not rely on your memory. Tenth, use rubbing alcohol mentioned above with your finger tips no fingernails, just skin in a circular motion to remove fungus clouds from optical surfaces.
It may require several times to completely remove the fungus. Do not allow excess to drip anywhere. Clean with a lint free, chemical free no anti static chemicals used in the dryerwhite cotton t-shirt.Analog Photography: First Time Using Medium Format 120 Film Camera First Photos!
Then use ROR with a t-shirt to remove any residues. They were a lost cause when I started. They are simple in design and easy to restore.